Posts Tagged ‘Road Trip’

Neal Cassady: Saint of the Holy Road

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

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After the second world war, things changed fast in America. Legions of middle-​​class families abandoned the big cities and built comfortable lives in the suburbs. Few individuals seem prepared to break the chrome-​​clad, dollar-​​stamped mould. But one that did was Neal Cassady.

And ironically he sought freedom in two things as American as cherry pie: the road and the automobile.

Cassady’s 1940s exploits with cars have been immor­talised in Jack Kerouac’s classic novel, On The Road, whose hero, Dean Moriarty, is a thinly disguised portrait of a working-​​class kid from Denver. Cassady was later recruited to drive writer Ken Kesey and his ‘Merry Pranksters’ bus, ‘Further’. That day-​​glo painted 1939 International Harvester, as recorded in Tom Wolfe’s 1968 book The Electric Kool-​​Aid Acid Test, took off around America’s west coast in the mid-​​sixties intro­ducing the world to the then-​​legal LSD insur­gency. It was fitting: a man considered to be a central inspir­ation of the hippy movement had won himself a place behind the wheel of its primary automotive symbol.

He has been remembered as spontaneity itself and never more so than when he was behind the wheel. “When you went riding with him,” said Jerry Garcia of the Merry Pranksters’ house band, The Grateful Dead, “it was to be afraid as you could be, to be in fear for your life. You’d be racing around San Francisco at 50 or 60 miles per hour, up and down those streets with blind corners every­where and he’d cut around them in the wrong lane and make insane moves in the most intense traffic situations. He could see round corners. And while he was doing this he’d be talking to everyone in the car at once and dialling in the radio and fumbling with a roach.”

Kerouac used the frantic kinesis of his road-​​buddy as an extended metaphor: “The most fantastic parking lot attendant in the world, Cassady could back a car 40 miles an hour into a tight squeeze and stop at the wall, jump out, race among fenders, leap into another car, circle it 50 miles an hour into a narrow space, back swiftly into a tight spot, snap the car to a stop so that you could see it bounce as he flies out, then clear to the ticket shack, sprinting like a track star, ticket in hand, leap into a newly arrived car before the owner’s half out, start the car with the door flapping and roar off to the next available spot, arc, pop in, brake, out, run; working like that without pause eight hours a night — in greasy wino pants with a frayed fur-​​lined jacket and beat shoes that flap.”

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Cassady’s art was his life, which made it all the more poignant that he was remembered primarily as a driver. Neal ended up rejecting his literary depiction, that of a sexually ferocious, motor­mouthed überhuman who could hold three conver­sa­tions at once, orgasm 20 times a day and predict the serial number of a hidden dollar bill up to the 10th digit. Wavy Gravy, one of the Pranksters in chief, summed up the tragedy that was the Cassady myth: “All along the roadside you see the charred remains of people who, in a effort to emulate Cassady, burned themselves out. And we’re not talking about 10 or 20 people here, we’re talking about the hundreds, perhaps thousands who read On The Road and wanted nothing more than to be Neal Cassady.”

In 1968 at the age of 41, Cassady died after collapsing by the side of a Mexican railroad track following an amphetamine-​​and acid-​​fuelled final performance. Amongst the last acts was a series of drunken midnight speed runs in a Lotus Élan. According to Ken Kesey who was there that night, Cassady’s last words were “sixtyfour thousand, nine hundred and twenty eight”. Apparently he had been counting ties in the afore­men­tioned railroad track that cold night whilst attempting to reach the next town.

Who knows what legends would have been written if the man in the driving seat of a gener­ation hadn’t finally run out of gas?

The Canterbury Conversion

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

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Mickey Gibbons has only lived with his1971 Ford Transit MK1 Canterbury Conversion for two years — but already its person­ality is burned into his hearts and minds. “Her name is Susan, Mickey tells me as we prepare to pull away into a North Essex countryside yellowing with ripening wheat, “The name just seemed to fit. It’s defin­itely a feminine vehicle, but is also quite practical. The name Susan seemed to say that to me.”

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GIving names to vehicles is a notori­ously polar­ising piece of anthro­po­morphism. But if any vehicle on the road had a person­ality to which you could ascribe human attributes, it would be this pretty camper.

The thing I love about it is the fact that so many other people love it,” Says the graphic artist. As he shows me the original plug, a tiny, forty year old plug that came with the van. “You could do a social history of England just through this van. We’ve just been up to Scotland and back in her, and everyone we met had a story about their old Transit Van, or their old Transit camper. There’s something about them that inspires a very real kind of devotion and affection.”

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The camper is almost completely original, with the leather strapped top box and modular furniture that came out of the Kent factory back in the time of the Ted Heath Government. The only thing that isn’t is the two litre ‘PInto’ ford engine, a reliable bit of Dagneham engin­eering that propelled the two of them to the Western Isles of Scotland and back to the Essex countryside they call home. ” It was a 1400 mile roundtrip, and we only had one little incident with what the man called an ‘Ignition electronic amplifier’.” Half a day’s delay and eighty quid in parts and labour, and the sailed off into the distance unhar­rassed. “She’s got a 50 mile per hour maximum cruising speed, so we still managed to get 25 MPG.” Mickey is obviously a proud partner of the Canterbury.

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Driving a forty year old van is a physical exper­ience. Mickey shows amazing aptitude, throwing the Trannie in and around the tight, undulating lanes around Manningtree with aplomb. It’s all about flirting with the gearbox, reading the road ahead and teasing the lower gears in and out of corners. “When I get in a new car, I’m always amazed at how little you have to do!” he says, as we pull out from some stationary traffic and some blokes in a Mercedes Vito pipe up without being asked. “No power steering that one, mate!”

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The thing is with new cars is that they are so boring, Mickey tells me, as we pull back in to the driveway and fire up the stove for a cup of tea. “They have no person­ality and are still really expensive to buy and run. We can get out on the road with this van and the journey becomes the destination.”

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The Land Rover Experiment: Part One

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Dawn’s early light in the late spring. I am about to conduct and exper­iment. Two people. Tons of kit (surfboards, wetsuits, camera gear) and seven hundred miles from the Southwest of England to the Northeast of Scotland. My steed: A Landrover Discovery 3.

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You see, there’s a lot of talk about the demise of the ‘gas guzzling SUV’. The very statement, a hackneyed Americanism, is loaded with jarred, mistaken political posturing. Or that’s the theory, anyway.

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Our argument is that for certain trips, there’s little better: more energy efficient, comfortable, practical _​ not to mention aesthet­ically pleasing, than loading a a bullet­proof, Solihull-​​built TDV6 Disco with gear, people and Diesel and heading out on an adventure.

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So, we have chosen to head to the far north of Scotland to go surfing. No, we’re not masochists, but need to see how we can join some of the best surfers on the planet at the Highland Open, and paddle out to some of the best surf in Europe — without bothering with the hassle of taxi rides to airports, inter­minable check-​​in procedures and excess baggage: followed then by car hire, rigid travel schedules and all manner of other wagonless adventures.

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We’ll log the amount of fuel we use, and calculate the approx­imate emissions we generate: and we reckon we’ll save time, energy and pounds sterling. As well as demon­strating that a motor like the Disco 3 is still the best vehicle for adventure ever invented.

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Well, at least we’ll test the theory. Stay tuned for dispatches from the Far North.

Death Race 2000

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

In America the automobile was always an icon of liberty. And from the very earliest days of motoring the American road trip itself is a sort of sacred pilgrimage where techno­lo­gical progress and the freedom of the open road were celeb­rated. It wasn’t long until Hollywood hammered the image home and road-​​tripping motors nudged out covered wagons as the carriers of the flame of American self-​​determination. All the more powerful, then, is the Roger Corman produced exploit­ation epic that is Death Race 2000. Set in a dystopian millennium where a fascist global government keeps the plebs in order by the spectacle of sacri­ficial festivals on the coast – to-​​coast highway, the 1975 movie is an absurdist commentary on America’s automotive obsession and a delightful subversion of the sacred coast-​​to-​​coast trip. Featuring perform­ances of the purist vintage of killer kitsch from David Carradine and Sly Stallone, the design and photo­graphy is garishly evocative of the comic book futurism popular in the seventies. The twisted chicks in the cast are jarringly sexy, and some of the dialogue is poetry of the campest order. And of course, there are some brilliantly stupid modded cars. In an awful promotion of national stereo­types the murderous Roman ‘Nero the Hero’ drives a machine based on a Fiat 850 Spider, whilst ‘Matilda the Hun’ rocks a Swastika helmet and a Karmann Ghia modded to resemble a doodlebug flying bomb. Star of the show David Carradine’s mutant green mean machine is under the skin of it all a 1973 Corvette. America rules, of course. Looking at the film in mixed company and with the spectre of political correctness stalking us all, the film is at times an uncom­fortable watch. Best saved, then, for the late night drive-​​in, somewhere in Nebraska in 1976.